On the fringes of fashion

Bemused tourists sat transfixed as the procession of fashion week-goers, crossed the flagstones of Covent Garden. The Fashion Fringe initiative, sponsered by a range of industry big names including IMG, The Sunday Times Style and net-a-porter, aims to provide a platfrom for new talent. With a prize worth £100.000 in PR, materials and so on, it is London's most coveted trophy for new designers. After a champagne reception we took our seats and were treated to the sight of the fashion A-list. Tom Ford (wearing what looked like heels for men- if Tom Ford says it ok, who am I to argue?), Supermodels Naomi, Claudia and Erin O’Connor, Natalie Massanet of net-a-porter.net and Colin McDowell of Style as well as a host of fashion editors and commentators.

The presence of so many unnaturally beautiful people in the same room coupled with the excitement of the competition made for a charged atmosphere. Andrea Mc Wha was first up, showing a feminine collection which had real commercial potential. Her collection clashed soft wisps of chiffon with hard black patent cropped jackets. There was a focus on eveningwear finishing with a full length purple silk empire line dress with a nude chiffon neckline. In terms of technique Andrea’s collection was not as sophisticated as some of the other competitors and in conceptual terms the collection was arguably one-dimensional. However there were dresses that many woman would love to have in her wardrobe- simple, clean and pretty.

Dejan Agatonovic’s collection was more complex and had much darker undertones. Burgundy and deep purple tones were joined with charcoal greys to create a sombre mood. Jersey high neck tunics and leggings were adorned with chiffon chains which ran the length of the leg and were draped like necklaces arrange in coils on the body. These chains gave an almost aquiline effect to the outfits. A full length burgundy chiffon dress showed red carpet potential- romantic in an ethereal sense. With bunched jackets playing with volume and obvious sophistication in terms of technique this was a promising collection from the Serbian designer.

Graeme Armour’s offering was much more relaxed with chiffon shorts, purple suede all in one short outfit and an interesting combination of textures and fabric techniques. The overall vibe was relaxed glamour with long flowing blonde tresses adding a hippie touch. The shoes from this collection were fantastic- platforms in fuchsia and purple suede with huge tassels. In parts this collection lacked coherence and the finishing was not as impressive as some of the other competitors.

The final entry was from couple Maki Aminaka Löfvander and Marcus Wilmont (Aminaka Wilmont). This was a an impressive collection in terms of finishing, technique and styling. With a limited colour palette of black white and grey, bold shapes were created around the body as hoods and collars were contorted to create huge shapes. Oversize bags were hung from the side and stack shoes added height to the figures. Leather was layered into an almost feather like shape around the neck in tight fitting jackets and as part of a long flowing dress. This raised neckline gave an Oriental feeling to the collection which was amplified through the bold simple shapes reminiscent of Japanese design.

As we returned to the reception and drunk another glass of champagne and ate some extremely cheesy canapés (which stopped anyone from getting too close to each other), Tom Ford and Colin McDowell took to the stage. The tension mounted and each contestant looked expectant. Aminaka Wilmont were announced as the winner and their relatives sobbed with joy. More tears were shed by one particular loser, and it became evident how much of his heart and soul he had poured into the collection. It is easy to forget in the whirl that is fashion week that the designers place themselves under enormous work pressures. So congratulations and commiserations were the order of the day for this years fashion fringe as two new designers enter the arena...watch this space!